The History of The Philippines

The Philippines is a country which consists of seven thousand islands with long and colorful history. Orang bilang, tak kenal maka tak sayang…supaya saya lebih sayang dengan Filipina sebelum berkunjung ke sana, maka saya mencoba mengenal lebih jauh sedikit mengenai negara tetangga ini.

BEFORE ISLAM

Pics taken from http://baliktanaw.wordpress.com/.

About 25,000 B.C. then the ancestors of the Philippines’ aboriginal inhabitants—the Negritos or Aeta—come from the Asian mainland, crossing shallow seas and land bridges. Archaeological evidence suggests that the Philippines may have been inhabited many thousands of years before then, but that can’t be stated with certainty. The oldest human fossil found so far was 22,000 years old.).

About 3000 B.C., new inhabitants come from Indonesia. This was repeated around 1000 B.C.

About 200 B.C., the first of several waves of Malayan settlers arrived from South China.

The 10th century was end of prehistoric Philippines. Laguna Copperplate Inscription, the earliest known Philippine document, is written in the Manila area in Kawi script. This century was marked by the rise of Indianized Kingdom of Tondo around Manila Bay.

Kingdom of Tondo Tondo, (also referred to as Tundo, Tundun, Tundok, Lusung) was a fortified kingdom which was located in the Manila Bay area, specifically north of the Pasig River, on Luzon island. It is one of the settlements mentioned by the Philippines’ earliest historical record, the Laguna Copperplate Inscription. Tondo’s regional prominence further culminated during the period of its associated trade and alliance with Brunei’s Sultan Bolkiah. When the Spanish first arrived in Tondo in 1570 and defeated the local rulers in the Manila Bay area in 1591, Tondo came under the administration of Manila (a Spanish fort built on the remains of Kota Seludong), ending its existence as an independent state. This subjugated Tondo continues to exist today as a district of the city of Manila.

In 11th century, people from Central Vietnam called Orang Dampuan establish trade zones in Sulu. Later Song Shih document records tributary delegation from the Buddhist Kingdom of Butuan, an ancient Indianized kingdom in pre-colonial southern Philippines centered on the present Mindanao island city of Butuan. It was known for its mining of gold, its gold products and its extensive trade network across the Nusantara area. The kingdom had trading relationships with the ancient civilizations of Japan, China, India, Indonesia, Persia, Cambodia and areas now comprised in Thailand. Butuan is considered to have been a major trading port in the Caraga region during the pre-colonial era.

In 12th century, Kingdom of Namayan (also called the Kingdom of Sapa, Maysapan or Nasapan, and sometimes Lamayan – both references to its capital) reached its peak. It was one of three major kingdoms that dominated the banks of the Pasig River and the coast of Laguna de Bay in the Philippines prior to the Spanish conquest in the 16th century. Namayan is said to be the oldest of the three kingdoms, predating the kingdoms of Tondo and Maynila. Formed by a confederation of barangays, it is said to have achieved its peak in 1175.

PERIOD OF ISLAMIC KINGDOMS

Pics taken from http://correosfilipinas.tumblr.com/.

Starting from 13th century, Islam was introduced to Phillipine. First in 1240, Tuan Masha’ika arrived at Sulu. Later in 1380, Karim Al-Makhdum arrived in Jolo and built a mosque known as Sheik Karimal Makdum Mosque (the oldest mosque in the country).

Since then, extensive trade is being conducted with India, Indonesia, China, and Japan. Arab traders from Indonesia continued introducing Islam to the Filipinos.

In 15th century, Sultanate of Sulu founded by Sharif Al-Hashim. It was an Islamic  state that ruled over many of the islands of the Sulu Sea, in the southern Philippines and certain portions of present-day Sabah (then North Borneo) specifically “north-west coast and extending along the whole east coast as far as the Sibuco River in the south and comprising amongst others the States of Paitan, Sugut, Bangaya, Labuk, Sandakan, Kina Batangan, Mumiang, and all the other territories and states to the southward thereof bordering on Darvel Bay and as far as the Sibuco river with all the islands within three marine leagues of the coast.”

The 16th century was marked by the rise of Kingdom of Maynila (or Kota Seludong), one of three major city-states that dominated the area by the lower reaches and mouth of the Pasig River. It was the site of present-day Manila, the capital of the Republic of The Philippines.

During the reign of Sultan Bolkiah (1485–1521) the Kingdom of Brunei decided to break the Kingdom of Tondo’s monopoly in the Chinese trade by attacking Tondo and establishing the city-state of Seludong as a Bruneian satellite. This is narrated through Tausug and Malay royal histories, where the names Seludong, Saludong or Selurong are used to denote Manila prior to colonization.

In the mid-16th century, the areas of present-day Manila were sultanates and they were governed by Muslim rajahs. Rajah Matanda (whose real name was recorded by the Legaspi expedition as Ache) and his nephew, Rajah Sulayman (“Rajah Mura” or “Rajah Muda”, a Sanskrit title for a Prince), ruled the Muslim communities south of the Pasig River, including the Kingdom of Maynila, while Rajah Lakandula ruled the Kingdom of Tondo north of the river. These settlements held ties with the sultanates of Brunei, Sulu, and Ternate, Indonesia (not to be confused with Ternate in present-day Cavite).

SPANIARD COLONIZATION

Pics taken from http://kapisanan.wordpress.com/2008/06/17/post-independence-day/.

We can read that people in The Philippines got long history of civilization for centuries, but somehow it was existed in western history only after Ferdinand Magellan “discovered” the islands when he landed on Homonhon with his three small ships. He named this “discovered land” as “Archipelago of San Lazaro” (because he arrived at March 16, 1521 – the feast day of Saint Lazarus).  Two weeks later he sealed friendship through a blood compact with Rajah Kulambo of Limasawa. On March 31, 1521, an Easter Sunday, Magellan ordered a mass to be celebrated which was officiated by Friar Pedro Valderrama, the Andalusion chaplain of the fleet, the only priest then. The other priest, the French Bernard Calmette (Bernardo Calmeta) had been marooned at Patagonia with Juan de Cartagena for being implicated in the mutiny at San Julian. Conducted near the shores of the island, the Holy First Mass marked the birth of Roman Catholicism in the Philippines.

On April 23, 1521 Ferdinand Magellan landed in Cebu. He was welcomed by Rajah Humabon, who, together with his wife and about 800 natives, were baptized by the Spaniards on April 14, 1521 and considered to be the first Filipino Catholics. Magellan, however, failed to successfully claim the Philippines for the crown of Spain, having been slain in neighboring Mactan Island on April 27, 1521.

In 1542, Spanish expedition commandeered by Ruy Lopez de Villalobos claims the islands for Spain; names them “Philippines” after Prince Philip, later King Philip II of Spain; the Philippines becomes part of Spanish Empire.

Spain become the motherland while the Philippines became a colony. A bittersweet relationship between two countries had lead to the centralization and civilization of the Philippines.

In 1570 a Spanish expedition ordered by the conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi demanded the conquest of Manila. His second on command, Martín de Goiti departed from Cebu and arrived in Manila. The Muslim Tagalogs welcomed the foreigners, but Goiti had other plans. The Spanish force of 300 soldiers marched through Manila and a battle was fought with the heavily armed Spaniards quickly defeating and crushing the native settlements to the ground. Legazpi and his men followed the next year and made a peace pact with the three rajahs and organized a city council consisting of two mayors, 12 councilors, and a secretary.

A walled city known as Intramuros, at the southern banks of Pasig River was built to protect the Spanish colonizers. From that city, Intramuros which literally translate as a city within a wall. Intra means “within” while muros means “city/cities” became the capital of trade, industry, religion and even military. More importantly it became the seat of the colonial government.

On June 10, 1574, King Philip II of Spain gave Manila the title of Insigne y Siempre Leal Ciudad (“Distinguished and Ever Loyal City”). The Spanish government settled down while the rest of Manila suffers from various discrimination and other governmental problems.

In 1595, Manila was proclaimed as the capital of the Philippine Islands and became a center of the trans-Pacific silver trade for more than three centuries.

The Spaniards had their colonization in The Philippines until 333 years later. Some said that the Filipinos adopted the way of life of their conquerors and became Spanish in way and in life. Religion is one of the most well-engraved in the hearts of the Filipinos. Most of the population of the Philippines are Roman Catholics— this explains the existence of various century-old Churches in the Philippines.

On 21 November 1849 the Spanish Governor General of the Philippine Islands, Narciso Clavería, decreed the systematic distribution of surnames and the implementation of the Spanish naming system for Filipinos and Filipinas, thereby producing the Catálogo Alfabético de Apellidos (“Alphabetical Catalogue of Surnames”) listing Spanish, Filipino, and Hispanicised Chinese words, names, and numbers. Thus many Spanish-sounding Filipino surnames are not surnames common to the Hispanophone world. However, Spanish nobility and colonial administrator surnames were explicitly prohibited.

The colonial authorities implemented this decree because too many (early) Christianized Filipinos assumed religious-instrument and saint names. There soon were too many people surnamed “de los Santos” (“of the Saints”), “de la Cruz” (“of the Cross”), “del Rosario” (“of the Rosary”), “Bautista” (“Baptist”), et cetera, which made it difficult for the Spanish colonists to control the Filipino people, and most important, to collect taxes. This Spanish naming custom countered the native Filipino naming custom wherein siblings assumed different surnames, as practised before the Spanish Conquest of the Philippine islands.

Moreover, because of this implementation of Spanish naming customs (given name -paternal surname -maternal surname) in the Philippines, a Spanish surname does not necessarily denote Spanish ancestry

Records on later historical events:
1872 – Gomburza (Fathers Mariano Gomez, Jose Burgos and Jocinto Zamora) were executed by the Spaniards.
1892 – José Rizal founded the civic organization La Liga Filipina.
1896 – Katipuneros torn their cedulas & shout in contempt of the Spaniards in what is called the Cry of Pugadlawin.
1897 – General Emilio Aguinaldo established the a new republic at Biak-na-Bato in Bulacan.
1886 – José Rizal published anti-Spanish novel, Noli Me Tangere (The Lost Eden); and seers up independence sentiment.
1896 – Spanish executed Rizal for instigating insurrection; public outrage spawns rebellion.

WORLD WAR II

1941 – Japanese invades the Philippines, and defeats Gen. Douglas MacArthur at Bataan and Corregidor; Quezon establishes government in exile in the U.S.
1944 – Quezon dies in exile; Vice President Sergio Osmeña assumes the presidency; MacArthur returns to the Philippines and lands in Leyte with little resistance.
1945 – Gen. MacArthur liberates Manila and President Osmeña establishes government.

THE INDEPENDENCE

Pics taken from http://philippineamericanwar.webs.com/philippineindependence.htm.

In 1896, the Philippine Revolution began after the martyrdom of José Rizal. Eventually, the Spanish signed an agreement with the revolutionaries and Emilio Aguinaldo went into exile in Hong Kong. At the outbreak of the Spanish-American War, Commodore George Dewey aboard the U.S.S. Olympia sailed from Hong Kong to Manila Bay leading the Asiatic Squadron of the U.S. Navy. On May 1, 1898, the United States defeated the Spanish in the Battle of Manila Bay. Later that month, the U.S. Navy transported Aguinaldo back to the Philippines.

Independence was proclaimed on June 12, 1898 between four and five in the afternoon in Cavite at the ancestral home of General Emilio Aguinaldo some 30 kilometers South of Manila. The event saw the unfurling of the National Flag of the Philippines, made in Hong Kong by Marcela Agoncillo, Lorenza Agoncillo, and Delfina Herboza, and the performance of the Marcha Filipina Magdalo, as the national anthem, now known as Lupang Hinirang, which was composed by Julián Felipe and played by the San Francisco de Malabon marching band.

The Act of the Declaration of Independence was prepared, written, and read by Ambrosio Rianzares Bautista in Spanish. The Declaration was signed by ninety-eight people, among them an American army officer who witnessed the proclamation. The final paragraph states that there was a “stranger” (stranger in English translation — extrangero in the original Spanish, meaning foreigner) who attended the proceedings, Mr. L. M. Johnson, described as “a citizen of the U.S.A, a Colonel of Artillery”. The proclamation of Philippine independence was, however, promulgated on 1 August, when many towns had already been organized under the rules laid down by General Aguinaldo.

However, the declaration was never recognized by either the United States or Spain.

Finally on July 4, 1946, representatives of the United States of America and of the Republic of the Philippines signed a Treaty of General Relations between the two governments. The treaty provided for the recognition of the independence of the Republic of the Philippines and the relinquishment of American sovereignty over the Philippine Islands.

July 4 was observed in the Philippines as Independence Day until August 4, 1964 when, upon the advice of historians and the urging of nationalists, President Diosdado Macapagal signed into law Republic Act No. 4166 designating June 12 as the country’s Independence Day. June 12 had previously been observed as Flag Day and many government buildings are urged to display the Philippine Flag in their offices.

Some local historians might point out that independence in 1946 came with numerous strings attached. The U.S. retained dozens of military bases, including a few major ones. In addition, independence was qualified by legislation passed by the U.S. Congress. For example, the Bell Trade Act provided a mechanism whereby U.S. import quotas might be established on Philippine articles which “are coming, or are likely to come, into substantial competition with like articles the product of the United States”. It further required U.S. citizens and corporations be granted equal access to Philippine minerals, forests, and other natural resources. During hearings before the Senate Committee on Finance, Assistant Secretary of State for Economic Affairs William L. Clayton described the law as “clearly inconsistent with the basic foreign economic policy of this country” and “clearly inconsistent with our promise to grant the Philippines genuine independence.”

But the Philippine government had little choice but to accept these terms for independence. The U.S. Congress was threatening to withhold post-World War II rebuilding funds unless the Bell Act was ratified. The Philippine Congress obliged on July 2, 1946.

AFTER INDEPENDENCE

1946 – Manuel Roxas y Acuña was elected as the first president of the new republic.
1965 – Ferdinand E. Marcos was elected by a big majority as president.
1972 – Martial Law was declared by President Marcos.
1981 – Marcos lifted Martial Law.
1983 – Opposition leader Benigno “Ninoy” Aquino returned from exile and is assassinated on arrival at Manila International Airport; Aquino’s widow Corazon leads the “People Power” protest movement.
1986 – Marcos was declared winner in a presidential election beating Corazon Aquino amid charges of fraud; demonstrations erupt; Marcos flees to Hawaii; Aquino is declared president and forms a new government.
1992 – Endorsed by Aquino, her Secretary of Defense Gen. Fidel Ramos won presidential election. U.S. Philippine congress rejects a new treaty with the U.S. and Subic Bay naval base and Clark Air Field returned to Philippine government, ending American military presence in the Philippines.
1996 – The government of Ramos agreed to greater autonomy for southern island of Mindanao. Moro National Liberation Front (MNLF) ends the guerrilla war with the government.
1997 – Asian financial crisis gripped Asia and the Philippines escaped the crisis despite series of currency devaluations.
1998 – Former movie actor Joseph Estrada became elected president.
2000 – On charges of corruption, the lower house impeached Estrada.
2001 – Estrada was forced to step down due to public outrage over corruption allegations. Vice President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo assumed the presidency.
2004 – Presidential election took place. Arroyo’s closest rival (a dear friend of Ex-President Estrada) was film actor Fernando Poe, Jr. Arroyo narrowly defeated Poe, taking 39.5% of the vote to Poe’s 36.6%.
2005 – A taped conversation between President Arroyo & an election official surfaced during the 2004 elections implying she influenced the official election results. Calls for her resignation and demonstrations followed soon after. In September 2005, Congress voted down the filing of an impeachment against Arroyo.
2007 – Former President Joseph Estrada was convicted of plunder, the first ever in the history of the Philippines.
2010 – First automated national elections in the Philippines.
2010 – Benigno “Noynoy” Simeon Cojuangco Aquino III won the Presidential elections and sworn in at Manila’s Rizal Park on June 30, 2010.

Pics taken from http://www.csmonitor.com/From-the-news-wires/2010/0630/Benigno-Aquino-III-takes-oath-of-office-sworn-in-as-Philippine-leader.

References:
http://www.infoplease.com/spot/philippinestime1.html
http://www.philippine-history.org/timeline.htm#chitika_close_button
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_Philippine_history
http://yannahthewanderer.wordpress.com/2012/02/28/manila-philippines-an-introduction-and-a-historical-background/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Philippines

Malacca – Shah Alam – Kuala Lumpur (Itinerary 2013)

DAY ONE – May 3, 2013

12:00 PM – 2:50 PM = DAMRI Bus from Thamrin City to Terminal 3 Soekarno-Hatta Int’l Airport, check in, boarding, lunch.
2:50 PM – 5:50 PM = Flight from Jakarta to Kuala Lumpur.
5:50 PM – 8:30 PM = Arrival, immigration, dinner at LCCT.
8:30 PM – 11:30 PM = Transnasional Bus from LCCT to Mahkota Medical Center (ETD 9:00 PM, 130 km = 2 hours trip).
11:30 PM – 12:00 AM = Check in to hostel.

DAY TWO – May 4, 2013

6:00 AM – 8:00 AM = Sunrise at Masjid Selat Malaka (http://wowtravelblog.blogspot.com/2009/08/masjid-selat-melaka-malacca-malaysia.html, 2.5 km from hostel, must rent a bicycle).
8:00 AM – 8:45 AM = Breakfast, check out from hostel (left luggage).
8:45 AM – 10:00 AM = Melaka River Cruise from Muara Jetty behind Maritime Museum, ETD 9:00 AM/ETA 9:45 AM (http://www.malaysia-traveller.com/melaka-river-cruise.html).
10:00 AM – 10:30 AM = Maritime Museum (http://malacca.attractionsinmalaysia.com/Maritime-Museum.php).
10:30 AM – 12:30 PM = Go to Tourist Information Center to get “Melaka Street Map”, walk to Jonker Street (Jalan Hang Jebat, http://maryaroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2010/11/5-things-to-eat-on-jonker-street.html ), lunch at Geographer’s Café (http://www.geographer.com.my/), buy t-shirts and pin at Hard Rock Cafe (http://www.hardrock.com/locations/cafes3/directions.aspx?LocationID=610&MIBenumID=3).
12:30 PM – 2:30 PM = Historical walking tour, 1 km (refer to http://www.gpsmycity.com/tours/tour-of-melakas-historic-district-4312.html).
2:30 PM – 3:00 PM = Menara Taming Sari + Mini Rider 3D (http://menaratamingsari.com/our-attraction/).
3:00 PM – 4:00 PM = Take bags out from hostel, get taxi to Melaka Sentral (6 km, 15 minutes).
4:00 PM – 7:00 PM = Transnasional Bus from Melaka Sentral to Shah Alam (ETD 4:30 PM, estimated 2.5 hours trip).
7:00 PM – 9:00 PM Taxi from Shah Alam Bus Station to i-City, check in to hotel, dinner at KFC.
9:00 PM – 10:30 PM = FunWorld (Rodeo Bull, Trick Art Museum, 5D Cinema, Children Traffic Park, Rainbow Garden, F1 Circuit)
11:00 PM – 12:00 AM = City of Digital Lights and Outdoor Park Rides (Circus Travel, Giant Ferris Wheel, Spacewalk, Two-Tier Carousel, Superswing).

DAY THREE – May 5, 2013

8:00 AM – 9:00 AM = Breakfast, check out from hotel (left luggage).
9:00 AM – 10:00 AM = Visit Masjid Biru Shah Alam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sultan_Salahuddin_Abdul_Aziz_Mosque).
10:00 AM – 11:00 PM = SnoWalk (http://www.tripadvisor.co.id/Attraction_Review-g298316-d2226692-Reviews-SnoWalk-Shah_Alam_Petaling_District_Selangor.html).
11:00 AM – 2:00 PM = Take bags out from hotel, taxi from i-City to Padang Jawa, KTM to KL Sentral (ETD 11:44 AM/ETA 12:28 PM), lunch at McD, check in to hotel.
2:00 PM – 3:00 PM = LRT from KL Sentral to Masjid Jamek, shalat zuhr (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamek_Mosque), see Merdeka Square (http://www.backpackingmalaysia.com/things-to-do/dataran_merdeka/kuala-lumpur).
3:00 PM – 5:00 PM = Shopping at Mydin, shalat at Masjid India (http://www.masjidindia.com/).
5:00 PM – 7:00 PM = Get taxi, sunset at Menara KL (http://www.myonlinetour.com/malaysia/Menara_Kuala_Lumpur/index.html and http://www.kltower.com.my/index.cfm?sc=location_map).
7:00 PM – 8:00 PM = Get shuttle bus then walk from Menara KL to Concorde Hotel, buy t-shirt and pin at Hard Rock Shop.
8:00 PM – 10:00 PM = Bus U26 (towards Bukit Indah) or U29 (towards Taman Mulia Jaya) from Renaissance Hotel to Suria KLCC (refer to http://www.myrapid.com.my/), shopping at Toys R Us, photo op in front of The Twin Towers.
10:00 PM – 11:00 PM = KTM from KLCC to KL Sentral, dinner at McD (24/7).

DAY FOUR – May 6, 2013

5:00 AM – 6:30 AM = Check out from hotel, Airport Coach from KL Sentral to KLIA (ETD 5:30 AM/ ETA 6:30 AM, http://airportcoach.com.my/v1/2011/02/08/klia-kl-sentral/).
6:30 AM – 7:50 AM = Check in, drop baggage, breakfast, boarding.
7:50 AM – 8:50 AM = Flight back to Jakarta.
8:50 AM – 10:30 AM = Arrival, immigration, baggage claim, trip from airport to Menara BCA by DAMRI Bus toward Thamrin City.

Thousand Island (November 15-18, 2012)

HR Dept at my office finally anounced that Friday (November 16) would be day-off because Friday was national holiday of Islamic New Year. If only the announcement came earlier (like 5-6 months in advance) then I would had chance to book tickets to other cities/countries. Because they announced it on Tuesday of the same week, then it was too late for me to buy train/plane tickets (not really late but the price would be much higher for trips during the long weekend, certainly over my budget).

So, I decided to go to Thousand Island. It’s part of Jakarta, here is the map that I got from http://iawisata.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/PETA-PULAU-SERIBU.jpg:

The night before left home for his adventure, I packed some medicine for first aid.

DAY ONE (THURSDAY – NOVEMBER 15, 2012)

Alif and I departed from home at 6:00 AM, took taxi to Muara Angke Port, here is the location at the North Jakarta (the piers were inside wet fish market, so prepare for bad smell!) from my BlackBerry screenshot.

Finally Alif and I got onboard. It’s fishermen’s boat then expect no seating. :D

We’re sailing, woo hoo! Our boat departed at 7:20 AM, it’s 2.5 hours trip (Rp.35,000/passenger but they didn’t charge Alif because he was “just a little boy”, hehehe…).

Front view of out homestay, only 50m away from arrival pier at Tidung Island. Contact: Mechin, +6281574777403 (fare = Rp.250,000 per night but I got it Rp.600,000 for 3 nights). Check in time = 10:00 AM (probably adjusted to arrival time of first boat from Muara Angke or Marina Ancol), check out time = 9:00 AM.

Interior of our room, nothing fancy but the owner provided AC and drinking water dispenser. Alif was taking few minutes rest, watching TV and eating his snack.

Through the homestay owner, I ordered catering (Rp.45,000/day per person for breakfast + lunch + dinner). They serve it a la carte in this Waroeng Tidoeng.

Here is our lunch menu of plain rice with fried fish, fried “tempe”, red chilli sauce, few slices of cucumber and “sayur asem”.

To get around the island faster and easier (and cheaper), I rent this bicycle for Rp.15,000 per day (I bargained then it was Rp.40,000 for 4 days).

On our way to the west coast, we passed this playing ground but sadly not kid was playing there.

I haven’t finished this blog entry, so more details are available on my Facebook photo album.

Singapore-KL Trip 2012

MY HUNT FOR CHEAP TICKETS AND ACCOMMODATION

I bought two one-way tickets on December 15, 2011 (10 months from planned departure date) to get cheap fare Rp.568,000 for me and Alif. Three months later (January 13, 2012), I bought Tiger Airways tickets 2 x SG$ 30 = SG$60. Finally I got Air Asia tickets to go home, KL-Jakarta, only RM183 in total for both of us during the promo week (February 16, 2012) including 15 kg of baggage allowance.

I booked a private room at ABC Hostel through online reservation at http://www.abchostel.com.sg/, located conveniently in Bugis area. The hostel would be easy to reach from Changi Airport, and only few minutes walk to Masjid Sultan where I wanted to do Shalat Idul Adha.

For Kuala Lumpur, I booked a room via http://www.agoda.com/, price for “Joy Double Room with Window” was US$ 27.65 charged to my credit card. It’s conveniently located less than 400m from KL Sentral bus/train station, and one minute walk to KL Sentral Monorail Station, I will save the transportation cost significantly because no need to use any taxi. Not much good online reviews about the hotel (small rooms, noisy, surrounded by brothel etc e.g. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g298570-d2240909-Reviews-Joy_Inn_Hotel-Kuala_Lumpur_Wilayah_Persekutuan.html), but I think it will be good enough for us to get some sleep (which probably will not be more than 6 hours anyway).

I purchased online two-way tickets from/to LCCT to KL Sentral, RM14 (adult) + RM8 (child) = RM22. My flight from Kuala Lumpur will be 7:00 AM on Sunday morning (October 28, 2012) means I have to be at the airport before 6:00 AM. Refer to http://www.aerobus.my/Home_en.aspx, I must catch 4:45 AM bus not to miss the check in (Air Asia is very strict on this matter, few times I saw late passengers were just denied from getting on board).

Got cheapest tickets for Universal Studio Singapore from SCOT Online Travel (PT Duta Wisata Dunia), http://scot-onlinetravel.com/. Official price from http://www.rwsentosa.com/ = SG$ 76 for adult + SG$56 for child. SCOT’s price = SG$65 for adult + SG$49 for child = SG$114. Means, I have saved SG$18. Cool, got extra budget for our meal!

TRIP SUMMARY

DAY ONE (October 25, 2012)

Air Asia flight from Jakarta to Singapore on Thursday evening was scheduled for ETD 6:50 PM, but the plane didn’t take off until 11:30 PM. Alif and I should have arrived by 9:30 PM, but it was almost 2:00 AM when finally we got to Changi Airport.

No more cheap MRT after midnight, then Alif and I took shuttle bus from airport to ABC Hostel at Jalan Kubor. The fare was S$9 for adult, S$6 for child. Already 3:00 AM when we checked in, it’s a private room (S$55 on regular day, S$60 on peak day, with S$20 refundable deposit for key).

DAY TWO (October 26, 2012)

We started the day by going for Shalat Idul Adha at one of big mosque, Masjid Sultan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masjid_Sultan). Located at Kampong Glam, Sultan Mosque is one of Singapore’s most impressive religious building with its massive golden dome and huge prayer hall. Built in 1824 by Sultan Hussain Shah, the first sultan of Singapore, with a grant from the East India Company. The main prayer hall can hold up to 5,000 worshippers. The dome base is formed out of many glass bottles collected by devotees and is a great sight to behold.

I wanted to eat nasi beryani from the famous Zam Zam Restaurant (http://www.alexischeong.com/2012/05/alt-tour-singapore-zam-zam-restaurant.html), but it closed because of “Hari Raya Haji” national holiday. So we went directly to Sentosa Island by MRT East West Line from Bugis Station near our hotel to Outram Park, then changed train to MRT North East Line until Harbour Front. A bit walk through Vivo City, we got another train ride to Sentosa Island until Universal Studio.

Within 7.5 hours (10:25 AM-5:55 PM), Alif enjoyed 13 attractions.

Rides:
– Transformer The Ride (Sci-Fi City)
– Accelerator (Sci-Fi City)
– Rapids Adventure (The Lost World)
– Treasure Hunters (Ancient Egypt)
– A Crate Adventure (Madagascar)
– King Julien’s Beach Party-Go-Around (Madagascar)
– Enchanted Airways (Far Far Away)…3x!
– Shrek 4D Adventure (Far Far Away)
– Magic Potion Spin (Far Far Away)

Shows and street performances:
– Sesame Street’s New York Street (New York)
– The Rockafellas (New York)
– Monster Rock (Hollywood), 25 minutes of highly recommended musical show
– Daddy O’s (Hollywood)

DAY THREE (October 27, 2012)

On the sunny Saturday morning, Alif and I checked out from hostel then went to Singapore Flyer (http://www.singaporeflyer.com/) by MRT (from Farrer Park to Dhoby Ghaut, then Circle Line to Promenade, go out from Exit A). Alif got boring during 30 minutes flight in the cabin we shared with two other families (US and Indian), while I was so excited to see Singapore from eye-bird view.

We left from Promenade before 11:00 AM, took MRT to Paya Lebar, then continue by East West Line to Changi Airport for our Tiger Airways flight, ETD 12:50 PM.

We arrived at LCCT by 2:05 PM as scheduled, after immigration process then we took Aerobus to KL Sentral and checked in to Joy Inn before 4:00 PM. After shower and a quick rest, we got on trip by LRT from KL Sentral to Pasar Seni.

After bought few souvenirs (fridge magnets, keychains) then we walked to Masjid Jamek. A bot more walk, we passed Masjid India on the way to Mydin where Alif bought a car toy with remote control and I packed some South Asian masala and spice, ghee (butter made from cow mik) also atta flour (whole wheat, perfect for paratha) and basmati rice (special long grain from India) which cost much cheaper than price in Indonesia (maybe because they imported in bulk amount considering high population of South Indian migrants in Malaysia).

I planned to take Alif to check toys at Toys R Us at Suria KLCC (and make some photos of him in front of the twin towers) but it was too late, 9:00 PM already when we got back to KL Sentral for dinner at McDonalds and walked to Joy Inn.

DAY FOUR (October 28, 2012)

We were awake since 4:00 AM, checked out from hotel and walked 15 minutes to KL Sentral. The Aerobus left at 4:30 AM then enough time before our Air Asia flight, ETD KL 7:00 AM. It was 50 minutes delayed then we arrived at Jakarta at 8:50 AM. A breakfast at T3 Soekarno-Hatta International Airport before got home, we ended the trip safely as expected, alhamdulillah.

Weekend in Bandung

My company held a “family day” at Kampung Gajah Wonderland (http://www.kampunggajah.com/) on Saturday – October 6, 2012. It was a fun day, Alif enjoyed the attractions, waterpark, etc.

Instead of going back to Jakarta along others with chartered buses, I decided to stay overnight at Dayang Sumbi Resort. On the next day (Sunday – October 7, 2012)  then I took my son to explore interesting places around Bandung before traveled back to Jakarta.

– Tangkuban Parahu (http://indonesia.travel/en/destination/392/marvel-at-tangkuban-perahu-s-volcanic-crater).

– De Ranch (http://deranchlembang.com/id/).

 

Let’s Go “Mudik” to Palembang!

Idul Fitri (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eid_ul-Fitr) is Islamic event that most celebrated in Indonesia. People would go back to their hometown to gather with family. Big cities like Jakarta would be less crowded because most of the Muslim family prefer to spend the time with relatives in villages, it’s called as “mudik” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mudik).

This year the first day of Syawwal 1433 H will fall on Sunday – August 19, 2012 (http://www.muhammadiyah.or.id/id/download-maklumat.html). I’ve bought my return tickets to Palembang, my hometown, since December 9, 2011 from Lion Air (http://www.lionair.co.id) to get cheap fare (only Rp.786,800 = US$83 for return trip per person) otherwise would be expensive.

I think that Idul Fitri doesn’t cause such huge temporary exodus in any other Islam country (or Muslim majority country), unlike in Indonesia. So many people traveled from other cities to gather with their family, then landtrip can be a nightmare (my friend who lives in Wonosobo usually needs 14 hours from Jakarta, but during Eid holiday then it would be 36 hours due to traffic jam almost any where along the “mudik route”). Soekarno-Hatta International Airport must manage to handle additional 135 daily flights during “mudik” period this year.

DAY ONE (Thursday – August 16, 2012)

Alif and I left from my office at 11:10 AM, still more than 3 hours before our flight (ETD 2:15 PM) but I wanted to anticipated the traffic jam, might be longer time needed to reach airport than usual 45-50 minutes.

Luckily it was smooth trip, I could reach Terminal 1B within 50 minutes, fare was only Rp.79,500 plus toll fee Rp.12,500. After checked in and dropped our baggage at special counter for passengers who already got city check in (on Lion Air office at Jl Gajah Mada) or web check in (on http://www.lionair.co.id), then we were waiting at Gate B1.

The plane departure was 15 minutes late, but surprisingly could arrive at Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II International Airport, Palembang, as scheduled (ETA 3:40 PM). It was half an hour waiting for hour bags before finally we got out from arrival gate.

Instead of taxi (fare would be Rp.75,000), we took Trans Musi bus to city (Rp.4,000/person). It was very convenient and cheap, but unluckily not available until late (last bus from airport would be 5:30 PM).

Finally we arrived at Graha Sriwijaya Hotel in the middle of the city, http://hotelgrahasriwijaya.com/ (booked already through http://www.agoda.com). During ramadhan, the fare included breakfast (sahri, 3:00 AM – 5:00 AM), and breakfasting plus dinner (ta’jil and iftar, 6:00 PM – 7:30 PM). The taste was s0-s0, but good enough for us after long trip from Jakarta.

I planned for a self-arranged walking tour to Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum at Plaza Benteng Kuto Besak, MONPERA (Monumen Perjuangan Rakyat), then see sunset later at Ampera Bridge, but Alif was so tired. After dinner, he fell asleep on 7:30 PM.

DAY TWO (Friday – August 17, 2012)

I wanted to go out to see “Upacara Kemerdekaan” (67th Indonesia Independence Day Flag Ceremony) but Alif didn’t wake up until 8:30 AM, means it was too late because the ceremony usually started at 8:00 AM in government’s offices.

We left our room at 10:00 AM, then walked 5 minutes to Museum Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II. Alif had no interest to look what they kept or displayed in the museum (but there were many students went inside), then we rent an old fashioned boat (“perahu getek”) to Pulau Kemaro after few poses in front of the museum, also in front of the famous Ampera Bridge.

The boat was Rp.80,000 for return trip to Kemaro Island, the fare was per boat (can accommodate 6-7 passengers) then cost per passenger would be cheaper if go in group instead of just me and my son. One way took 40-45 minutes, at least 40-45 minutes to explore the island and take photos, means should spare 2-2.5 hours for the whole trip.

The legend of Kemaro Island: The unhappy ending love story between a Muslim princess (Siti Fatimah) and Chinese sailor (Tan Bun An).

The main temple on the island.

The laughing Buddha statue on the yard.

It was 1:00 PM when we got back to our room now, later Alif went swimming at the indoor pool then got some rest until we went out again on 4:30 PM. We walked to MONPERA (Monumen Perjuangan Rakyat, means Monument for Independence Struggle) then got around the city center, Bundaran Air Mancur (fountain circle). I took some pics of Masjid Agung (Grand Mosque), built in 10 years (1738-1748 AD or 1151-1161 H in Islamic year), refer to http://melayuonline.com/​eng/history/dig/300/​palembang-grand-mosque.

View to Masjid Agung from the fountain.

The main entrance.

Beautiful artdeco on the windows.

Ended the night with local delicacies: Pempek Panggang (grilled fish cake) and Martabak HAR (flat bread stuffed with egg and potato, with spicy potato curry sauce).

DAY THREE (Saturday – August 18, 2012)

Started the day by taking my son to my childhood house, located in a military estate near KM5 (means located 5 kilometer from the city center). My late dad was Ka JASDAM II Sriwijaya when my family lived there, 1983-1987.

It felt different, the yard was not as big as what I remembered, the living room was not so spacious (well, perhaps because I’m much bigger and taller than I was when lived in that house). One thing that doesn’t change: No need air conditioner or fan to cool inside the house, the house location was good then no heat during hot days of this dry season.

Later Alif and I visited Museum Balaputeradewa (but they closed then couldn’t enter any exhibition room, only walked around to see few relics on the yard).

On our way back to the city, we made a stop at my old primary school – Sekolah Dasar Negeri (SDN) 60, few years ago renumbered become SDN 42). I was 9 years old when started schooling there (Grade 4), my son was 8 years old (Grade 3) when he visited the school this morning. He was suprised to realize that I was ever a student in that school. Well, I explained to him that I cannot possibly become an old woman like now without ever been a kid like him, hehehe…

Back to hotel (after a stop at JM Plaza, Alif bought a new toy, I bought “manisan mangga” and “manisan liko), we took a swimming (again!) at the pool. Later Alif got tired, he took afternoon nap when I went to Tangga Buntung by public transport (“oplet”, blue colored minibus – Rp.2,000 one way from in front of the hotel).

The famous traditional cloth from South Sumatra Province is “songket” (http://melayuonline.com/eng/culture/dig/555/songket-weaving-of-palembang-south-sumatra), I have three sets already but thought about buying some new ones. My first stop in that Ki Gede Ing Suro area was at the house of unofficially aclaimed as number one supplier: Zainal Songket. Sadly the price was way over my budget (even 30% cheaper than their retail price in Jakarta). So I moved to a smaller one next door, Hj.Laila Aguscik Shop, and met the owner herself.

From Mrs.Laila, I bought a set of “kain jumputan” (http://www.epalembang.com/lang/en/travel-tourism/art-and-culture/jumputan), “kain tajung”, “sulam usus” blouse, and one wall decoration of Al Qur’an verses.

Alif looked very tired, so we decided to stay in our room after iftar at the hotel (Soto Ayam, Ayam Goreng Tepung, Rendang Daging, Es Buah), watched the firecrackers on the sky and teenagers’ convoys on the road from our windows.

DAY FOUR (Sunday – August 19, 2012)

Allahu akbar…Allahu akbar…Allahu akbar…la ila ha ill-Allahu Allahu akbar…Allahu Akbar wa lillah il-hamd…

The takbir and tahmid was in the air this morning, 1st day of Syawal 1433H, end of Ramadhan. Every Muslim all over the world celebrate the day as Idul Fitri (Indonesia) or Aidil Fitri (Malaysia and Singapore) or Eid ul-Fitr (other countries) after 29 or 30 days of fasting from pre-dawn until sunset. Alif and I left the hotel at 6:50 AM, walked our way to Masjid Agung.

There were more than 15,000 jamaah gathered at the masjid also the surrounding area, Alif and I got a place on the road. The major of the city (Walikota Palembang, Eddy Santana Putra) and governor of the province (Gubernur Sumatera Selatan, Alex Noerdin) were the ones among local prominent figures who shared the space of shalat inside the masjid. The pray started on 7:00 AM, lasted for 15 minutes with imam KH Nawawi Dencik Al Hafidz and khatib KH Taufiq Hasnuri.

Back to the hotel, we found that breakfast buffet menu at the hotel was special: Opor Ayam, Sambal Buncis, Rendang Daging. The desert was usual fresh fruits (melon, watermelon) and chocolate pudding, but they also served something special: Kue Engkak Ketan. It’s a traditional cake originally from this area, the recipe was forwarded from generations to generations since hundreds years old ago (e.g. http://kangzusi.com/Resep_Makanan/Kue_Engkak_Ketan.htm).

Breakfast menu: Steamed white rice, Opor Ayam, Sambal Buncis, with fruits and orange juice.

Chocolate pudding and special Palembang traditional cake: Kue Engkak Ketan.

On lunch time, Alif and I went to the house of my closest relative in the city, Mrs. Nawawi Yuni. She is my mom’s aunt, born in year 1933, a widowed mother of 12 kids (first daughter was born in 1954, last son was born in 1975). She loves my mom like her own daughter, loves me like her own granddaughter, loves Alif like her other 10 great-grandchildren.

From the hotel, we took green minibus to Lemabang (fare = Rp.2,500), then another mininus from Lemabang to Sekojo (fare = Rp.2,000). Got off at Jl Iswahyudi, it was still far from her house then we continued our trip by “becak” (cyclo rickshaw or pedicab, fare = Rp.7,000).

It was so nice to be in her house, we met most of her daughters and sons and grandchildren and great-grandchildren. So happy to see her in happy and healthy life (only a little problem on her knees).

There were lots of cookies and cakes, then we ate “Tekwan” (http://indonesiaeats.com/​tekwan-indonesian-palembang​-fish-balls-soup/) with the complete dressings of chopped cucumber, white vermicelli, fried shallot, green chilli sauce.

On our way back to hotel, few minutes before sunset, we walked through the back side of Masjid Agung. Alif commented, “Wow, Bunda…this mosque is beautiful!”

There was a pool with fountain, actually it was water reservoir for “wudhu” (ablution before pray), indicated with lots of taps around it. The architecture of the mosque was unique, without standard dome but “limas” roof style instead. Looked a bit like a Buddhist temple, in my opinion. Well, perhaps because there was Chinese influence on cultural artefacts from Palembang Sultanate era.

DAY FIVE (Monday – August 20, 2012)

I started the day by a quick visit to my old junior high school, Sekolah Menengah Pertama Negeri (SMPN) 2. Actually it was close to the hotel but Alif and I took “oplet” (Rp.2,000 for both of us, less than 2 km) from the hotel.

The next destination was Sekip Ujung to visit my old house at Tunas Jaya V in a military estate. I lived there for 5 years, 1987-1992. Too bad that current house owner was not home then I couldn’t enter. I wished to see my bedrooms where I spent my nights as lonely sad introvert teenager.

Few minutes walk from my old home was my senior high school, Sekolah Menengah Atas Negeri (SMAN) 6. I felt so proud that seemed like the school has got accredited as good school. There were WiFi connections and PCs in their library, free of charge for students, while there was no single computer in the school until I got graduated in 1992.

On the  noon, I joined my high school reunion at Swarna Dwipa Hotel.

Awesome buffet lunch of Pindang Kakap!

Alif and I ended the day by photo session around Masjid Agung and Jembatan Ampera.

DAY SIX (Tuesday – August 21, 2012)

After breakfast and swimming, Alif wanted to see the gym facility. Unlike hotels in Jakarta, they allowed kids (<17 years old) to enter, also allowed customer who doesn’t wear sport shoes. Anyway, the equipment was quite complete.

After shower, I took Alif to buy some souvenirs (t-shirt, keychains) at Jalan Kapten A Rivai.

Next door to the store was the famous “Pempek Candy” outlet. We ate our portions of delicious “Pempek Kapal Selam”, “Pempek Lenjer”, etc and enjoyed our glasses of “Es Kacang Merah”.

Here is their price list for take-away package:

On our way, we made a quick stop in front of the beautiful Al Atiq Mosque.

Back to the hotel (after packed a cheese burger from McDonald’s for Alif’s dinner), we checked out then got the taxi to the airport. I had a very bad experience with the staff at front desk, that girl cheated me badly.

She was really pissed me off, I still wonder whether she was so idiot and stupid enough to damage the hotel’s reputation in exchange to 2 cans of softdrink (I spotted the driver gave it to her when entered the lobby)…or she was poorly paid, low salary from her occupation at the hotel, then cheated hotel guests through her cheap and annoying “airport taxi” trick to get small amount of tipping from the driver.

I have clearly told her to book Blue Bird taxi, even asked twice to confirm if that waiting taxi was really from the best taxi company in Indonesia and she answered “yes”, but then turned out that she has called his friend instead – a driver who self-acclaimed himself as “provides regular airport transfer for hotel guests”. As I wrote on http://www.agoda.com/asia/indonesia/palembang/graha_sriwijaya_hotel/reviews.html, the driver ripped me off to pay Rp.110,000 for only 15 km trip (should be less than Rp.80,000) because he wanted to get extra Rp.30,000 during the Eid Holiday. The flag fall was Rp.7,000 and fare was Rp.5,000/km which was crazy amount compared to highly trusted Blue Bird taxis (flag fall = Rp.3,000 and fare = Rp.2,500/km).

CONCLUSION: Never never never book a taxi through the staff hotel, call BLUE BIRD directly by yourself by phone to 24/7 call center at (+62 711) 36 1111 or (+62 711) 366 450
(http://www.bluebirdgroup.com/nationwide/palembang).

Still grateful anyway,  after the driver took wrong circling routes and added more charge to his argometer, Alif and I could make a quick stop on our way to the airport to visit my dad’s grave (military cemetery – Kebun Bunga) and sent a pray for him.

The departure hall was nice, there was a giant display of Rp.10,000 (Indonesian bank note) which display the local hero. It’s time to say: Good bye, Palembang…

It’s Afghan Spring!

My second visit to Afghanistan: March 23- 28, 2012.

Back to Kabul: Stores sell unique handicraft on legendary Chicken Street.

Ladies and Gentlemen…here are the best breads on earth: AFGHAN NAN!

Afghan camels. ;p

Beautiful Salang Pass.

Welcome to Mazar-e Sharif, yay!

The beautiful Blue Dome.

The famous Afghan candies, special delicacies from Mazar-e Sharif. The small square pieces = sheer payra, the big round piece = halwa e konjid.

Visit to KBRI (Kedutaan Besar Republik Indonesia, The Embassy of Republic of Indonesia) is always a must.

The Charming Afghanistan

Before I went to Afghanistan, my mom almost cried, begged me not to go: “Desi, you’ll get yourself killed there…”

Well, I could come back to Indonesia in one piece, and honestly Afghanistan was just like any other country. People can get killed anywhere, suicide bombs even happened in Bali. Yes, the country was not safest tourism destination then visitors better take careful security precautions and get Afghan sisters or brothers (plus moms/dads/uncles/aunts/cousins too, if possible). I did, therefore traveling to Afghanistan made me feel like going back to my own hometown. I was hosted by sisters Zahra/Zohreh, and Mr.Jamshidy’s family, in Herat. Later I stayed with Mahdi’s family in Kabul.

There are rickshaws too in Afghanistan, same like India, also similar with Indonesian “bajay” in Jakarta.

My Afghan Tajik family in Herat. Lovely parents and sisters. They made me feel that Afghanistan was my home country.

My Afghan Hazara family in Kabul. They gave me sincerely heart-touching hospitality, lots of smiles and hugs as my real family.

I come to Afghanistan at the wrong time, it was winter then always raining in Herat and heavily snowing in Kabul. I should have come in spring/autumn (summer would be too hot and dry for me) to enjoy flowers blossoming everywhere and I could taste some Afghan fruits which unique, famous and very tasty (pomegranate from Kandahar, just one example). Anyway, it was special experience to taste Afghan naan. It’s the world’s BEST BREAD!

Previously I planned to take flight from Herat to Mazar-e Sharif, then land trip to Kabul via Salang Pass, perhaps make a stop at Bamiyan. But when I arrived at Herat, due to heavy snow in Kabul and surrounding area (then land trip will take much time) then I canceled it, flew directly from Herat to Kabul, spare Mazar-e Sharif (and Panjshir Valley etc) for my next trip to Afghanistan.

Snow in Kabul was too much…almost deadly for tropical Indonesian like me. :(

HERAT

Must visit places are:

1. Mausoleum of Queen Goharshad (after the death of her husband in 1447, she maneuvered her favorite grandson to the throne then later for ten years she became the de facto ruler of an empire stretching from the Tigris to the borders of China) and the Herat Minarets nearby.

A marble that told story about Her Majesty Queen Goharshad.

Zahra and I, in front of the minarets. She’s studying for master degree on law studies in Tehran.

2. Jama’ Masjid. Very beautiful, I’d say that it could be more beautiful than similar mosques in Iran, but sadly not well maintained.

3. The Arg. It was a military complex but used as museum (with awesome collections of Al Qur’an aged hundreds years – handwritten, decorated by real gold), some soldiers still lived there during my visit.

Zohreh and I. She’s studying medical (4th year, two more years to go before become a general practitioner doctor) at Herat University.

KABUL

It was very hard for me to survive in this capital city during the harsh winter. I wasn’t physically prepared, my suede boots got wet (should have brought the leather ones, waterproof). Walking on the slippery road was tough, I kept falling. I gotta come back to Kabul (to visit Babur Garden, Darulaman Palace, Qargha Lake etc), but certainly not when the city will be snowing like that.

Shisha time with Hakima at Morsal Restaurant.

My host, Mahdi, and his pretty cousin, Fatimeh, with me under the heavily falling snow.

Freezing cold at Mazari Square.

At Kote Sangi, busiest intersection in Kabul.

Cute snow cat. :)

The Stunning Iran

When first I told a friend that I was going to Iran, his first reaction was: “Are you nuts? Don’t you know that country will get bombed? I hope you’ll stay far away from any nuclear facility then won’t get killed when war starts in the country!”

Well, not much good news recently on media about Iran and it’s nuclear power “conflict” with US and UK. Mostly people thought that being a woman would be hard in the Islamic Republic (must wear headscarf and no sexy outfit). But those opinions were wrong, I could hang out with Iranian girls until late at night at coffee shops, walking with Iranian guys along the street, etc. And it’s safe, just like any other country, to roam around places. There were threats (pickpockets, robbery, tourist touts, etc) but not that scary at all.

SHIRAZ

It was a very romantic city. City of love. City of flower. Perfect for honeymooners. There were two very famous poet, Hafez (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hafez) and Saadi (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saadi_(poet), their tombs were major tourist destination in the city other than beautiful Eram Garden (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eram_garden), Shah Cheragh (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shah_Cheragh), The Arg of Karim Khan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arg_of_Karim_Khan), Qur’an Gate (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qur%27an_Gate).

Shiraz means “city of mystery” in accordance to a story about some jewels those hidden somewhere in the city, long long time ago. It also means “grapes” (Shirazi wine were very famous until all winery closed down following Islamic Revolution in 1979). Could mean “a kind of music instrument” too.

An hour trip from the city, there was Persepolis, Necropolis (Naghsh-e Rostam), Naghsh-e Radjab, Passargad. I stayed there for only 2 days then sadly must say that it was far from enough to enjoy the beautiful scenery and peaceful environment in Shiraz.

Tomb of Hafez.

With my host, Masoud, in front of king’s palace at Eram Garden.

Shirazi kalam polo is a must-taste cuisine in Shiraz.

Enjoyed the famous Shirazi palodeh with Masoud and Salman, in front of The Arg of Karim Khan.

Persepolis is important part in Christianity history. It was written that at one time then 24 years old then Jesus reached Persepolis, the city where the kings of Persia were entombed; the city of the Three Kings from The East (Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar) who, four-and-twenty years before, had seen the star of promise rise above Jerusalem, and who had journeyed to the West to find the new-born king. They were the first to honour Jesus as the master of the age, and gave him gifts of gold, gum-thus and myrrh. They knew, by ways that masters always know, when Jesus neared Persepolis; and then they girt themselves, and went to meet him on the way. And when they met, a light much brighter than the light of day, surrounded them, and men who saw the four stand in the way declared they were transfigured; seeming more like gods than men. Jesus also attended a feast in Persepolis. Spoke to the people, reviewed the magian philosophy, explained the origin of evil, spent his night in prayer. References: http://www.sacred-texts.com/chr/agjc/agjc041.htm and http://www.sacred-texts.com/chr/agjc/agjc042.htm.

Persepolis was awesome!

This two headed lion must be very famous, the photo seems familiar, right?

Ka’ba-ye Zartosht (Ka’bah of Zoroaster), a 5th century B.C.E. Achaemenid-era tower-like construction at Naghsh-e Rustam, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ka’ba-ye_Zartosht.

Inside Vakil Mosque near Vakil Bazaar.

Sunrise view from the rooftop of Niayesh Hotel.

ISFAHAN

This city had different vibe than Shiraz. Isfahan is a place about history, culture, education (like Jogjakarta, “the city of student” of Indonesia). Naghsh-e Jahan Square was must-visit place (there were Ali Qapu Palace, beautiful mosques, amazing pool with beautiful water spring, arrays of shops and restaurants which offered traditional Iranian cuisines, snacks and handicraft).

And anyone who visits Isfahan must come to the beautiful bridges at nights! Khajou Bridge, Si-o-Se Pol were just two of them.

Lunch at Bastani traditional restaurants with my hosts: Mahsa and Sama, and other CouchSurfers: Rene and Rike from Germany.

Super delicious beryani.

Imam Mosque in Naghsh-e Jahan Square.

Afternoon at the front of Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque in Naghsh-e Jahan Square.

Night light under the beautiful Khajou Bridge.

TEHRAN

The capital. It’s city of business and politics. I smelt money when I was there. People always moved in fast pace, such a hurry in crowds of 14 million people in the town. Traffic jam from dawn until night. I was hosted by Sifa, an Indonesian student who was studying for PhD on politic studies, accompanied when going around the city by Arul, an Indonesian student who was studying for master degree on microbiology.

Sifa and I, shopped for very tasty dried fruit in Tajrish Bazaar.

The view in the city. That was the snowy mountains of Tochal behind me.

The metro subway in Tehran. Very modern and always fully packed with passengers in the very busy city.

Moon and star above The Azadi Tower.

The Azadi Tower is part of Azadi (Freedom) cultural complex which is located in Tehran’s Azadi square in an area of some 5 Acres. It is the symbol of Tehran, Iran, and marks the entrance to the city. Built in 1971 in commemoration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire, this “Gateway into Iran” was named the Shahyad Tower (Literally: Remembrance of the Shahs) but dubbed Azadi after the Iranian Revolution of 1979. It is the symbol of the country’s revival, and intended to remind coming generations of the achievements of modern Iran under the Pahlavi Dynasty. It is 50 metres (148 feet) tall and is completely clad in cut marble.

Built with white marble stone from the Isfahan region, there are eight thousand blocks of stone used in Azadi Tower. The stones were all located and supplied by Ghanbar Rahimi, whose knowledge of the quarries was second to none and who was known as “Iran’s Master of stone”. The shape of each of the blocks was calculated by a computer programmed to include all the instructions for the building work. The actual construction of the tower was carried out and supervised by Iran’s finest master stonemason, Ghaffar Davarpanah Varnosfaderani. The main financing was provided by a group of five hundred Iranian industrialists. The inauguration took place on October 16, 1971.

The architect, Hossein Amanat, won a competition to design the monument. Azadi Tower combines Sassanid and Islamic architecture styles.

References: http://www.homedit.com/azadi-tower-in-tehran-iran/ and http://wikimapia.org/4758973/Azadi-Tower

MASHHAD

This city is the most sacred for Muslim Shia, millions people come from all over the world, spiritual trip to Holly Shrine of Imam Reza. The minarets were made from real gold, the inside interior of the mosque was awesome glittering with mirror works.

In December 2011, I hosted an Iranian girl from Mashhad, her name was Mahdieh. When I visited her hometown, then I stayed at her mom’s house.

My host in Mashhad, Mahdieh’s mom, Mrs.Toussi.

Holly Shrine of Imam Reza, the minarets were made from real solid gold.

The Beautiful India

India is traveler’s dream. Whoever wants to explore this world would put this country into the list of destination, so did I. There’s something romantic about the country’s name. It was a huge country before British decided to partition it into two countries in 1947: India and Pakistan (east part of Pakistan later become another country, Bangladesh).

It has long story of civilization, from center of Hindu kingdoms until Muslim emperors. Some of best art design on architecture can be found all over this country. I wished for longer time of stay in India but I couldn’t then only visited “the golden triangle” (Delhi-Agra-Jaipur) plus a day trip to Ajmer.

Must do in India: Get henna! :)

DELHI

The capital. I was surprised to see the airport was very much clean and modern when arrived there on February 20, 2012. It was quick immigration process because I had my visa already from Jakarta, otherwise must queue for visa-on-arrival (might take 2-3 hours).

This city had good metro network, fast and cheap way to get around the city. From my hotel in Karol Bagh area, could take the train from/to airport (http://www.delhiairportexpress.com/home/index.html). It’s recommended location because surrounded by markets, ATM, and not hard to find halal food, money exchanger, internet cafe, etc.

Well, I missed to get around the city using the hop-on-hop-off bus – the best way to see Delhi (http://www.hohodelhi.com/) because should spare the whole day but I never had that much time.

Jama’ Masjid.

A visit to my embassy. I love KBRI (Kedutaan Besar Republik Indonesia)!

AGRA

What else we have in mind when hear this city’s name other than The Magnificent Taj Mahal? I was astonished when saw it for the first time. So awesome. The king built it (took 20 years) over the grave of his beloved Mumtaz, his love must be so great.

Standard pose, pretended touching the pole. ;p

I planned to join a day tour arranged by Uttar Pradesh government (http://www.up-tourism.com/agra_darshan.htm), only 1700 rupees to visit Fatekhpur Sikri (80 km from the city), Agra Fort, and of course Taj Mahal, but the train was late due to blocked trail during winter then missed it (should have arrived there before 10:00 AM).

JAIPUR

Actually, I like this city more than others. It’s small and friendly. Lots to see around the city with relatively cheap and easy because it’s much less crowded than Delhi or Agra. Arrays of markets in the old town, around City Palace and other historical places, must bargain hard if you want to buy or take rickshaw, though.

Pretty wall/door decoration at City Palace, I wish can get one for my own house. :D

AJMER

There was a very famous holly place in this city, called Dargah Ajmer or Ajmer Sharif Dargah (http://www.dargahajmersharif.com/ or http://www.chishtiajmersharif.com/ or http://www.dargahajmer.com/). It’s interesting to know that although a grave of a Muslim sufi saint, Moinuddin Chishti (1141-1230 AD), it was visited by Muslim pilgrims as well as Hindus and Sikhs as a symbol of intercommunal harmony (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moinuddin_Chishti).

The main entrance of Dargah Ajmer.